Mount Ushba

Ushba is the mountain that follows you everywhere in Svaneti — a grim, double-horned silhouette nicknamed the "Matterhorn of the Caucasus". The south summit reaches 4,710 m, the north 4,690; it does not even crack the range's top ten by height, yet it outstares every neighbour by sheer character. For climbers it remains one of the hardest ascents in the region: the north summit fell first in 1888 (John Cockin and Ulrich Almer), the south only in 1903, to Rickmers' expedition.

Svan tradition makes Ushba the home of Dali, the golden-haired goddess of the hunt — and the mountain behaves accordingly, brewing its own weather and hiding its horns in cloud for days.

Where to see it best:

• The Mestia Cross viewpoint — the classic angle, with the whole valley below
• The Becho valley (Mazeri) — here Ushba hangs directly overhead
• Hatsvali and Zuruldi — a cable-car panorama of Ushba and Tetnuldi
• Koruldi Lakes — with reflections, for those who climb higher

Your best odds of a clear Ushba are the first hours after dawn, and September–October brings the steadiest skies. In winter, skiers watch the snowbound double horn straight from the Hatsvali lifts.