Rkoni Monastery and Tamar's Bridge

Rkoni sits at the end of a gorge, and the drive in is part of the story. The Tedzami valley cuts south from Kaspi into the Trialeti range; the road follows the river, crosses it several times, and in the last few kilometres the forest closes over both sides.

The monastery was founded in the 7th century and grew into a large medieval house. At its centre stands the Church of the Dormition, rebuilt more than once. Around it are a refectory, cells, and the remains of an enclosure wall and tower. Some buildings have been restored, others survive only to foundation level. A small monastic community lives here.

For many visitors the bridge is the real reason to come. Tamar's Bridge over the Tedzami is a single pointed arch in stone, dated to the 12th or 13th century and still used on foot. Its curve reflects in the water below, and it is probably the most photographed medieval bridge in Georgia. The name is traditional rather than documented; many bridges in Georgia are attributed to Queen Tamar.

Rkoni village itself is nearly empty. The gorge, though, fills with Tbilisi families in summer for walking and picnics: the water is cold, there is plenty of shade, and paths continue upstream beyond the bridge. In spring the river runs high and muddy; in late October the beech and hornbeam turn yellow and the crowds are gone. In winter the track is often impassable.