Nikortsminda Cathedral

Nikortsminda stands in a small village about thirteen kilometres before Ambrolauri and is regarded as the principal historic monument of Racha. The cathedral was built between 1010 and 1014 under Bagrat III, in the same wave of construction that produced the great churches of the newly united kingdom.

What sets Nikortsminda apart is the stone carving on its facades. Cornices, window frames and the drum of the dome are covered in relief work: geometric ornament, vine scrolls, animal and human figures, apostles. In terms of sheer density of decoration it is among the richest examples in medieval Georgian architecture, and it deserves time spent looking closely rather than a glance from the gate.

Inside are wall paintings of the 16th and 17th centuries, remarkably well preserved. The bell tower is a later addition from the 19th century.

Worth looking for:

• the reliefs on the north and west facades
• the carved drum of the dome and the window surrounds
• the interior frescoes in the sanctuary and under the dome

The cathedral is active and open almost all the time. It sits on Georgia's UNESCO tentative list, but is not inscribed on the World Heritage List. A visit takes about fifty minutes and makes the natural first stop on entering Racha.