Zhinvali Reservoir

Zhinvali is the point where the drive changes character. An hour out of Tbilisi the lowland scenery ends and a long, narrow, startlingly turquoise lake appears on the right, winding between wooded ridges. The colour is genuine, caused by fine mineral particles the Aragvi carries down from the mountains, and it is strongest under direct sun.

The reservoir was created in 1985 when the Zhinvali dam was completed. It supplies a large part of Tbilisi's drinking water and generates power at the same time. Old villages and medieval structures were flooded when the valley filled; in dry years, when the level drops sharply, fragments of walls reappear, which keeps local legends in good supply.

In practice Zhinvali is a stop rather than a destination:

• Roadside viewpoints between the dam and Ananuri, at almost every bend
• Ananuri fortress standing directly on the shore, so both fit into one visit
• Seasonal boat and pedalo hire in the northern arm of the lake
• Roadside cafés and trout restaurants south of the dam

The water level changes a lot through the year. In spring the reservoir is full and the colour is at its most intense; by late summer the shoreline is exposed and the effect is noticeably weaker.