Kvareli and the Kindzmarauli zone

Kvareli sits at the northern edge of the Alazani Valley, right against the slopes of the Caucasus, and that position defines its wine. The protected Kindzmarauli microzone spreads around the town: Saperavi grown here on stony, well-drained soil goes into the semi-sweet red that is Georgia's single most recognised label abroad. The same zone also produces dry Saperavi, which many visitors end up finding more interesting than the sweet version.

The town's headline attraction is its tunnel cellars. Kilometres of galleries cut into the rock in the Soviet period now serve as wine storage: a constant temperature year-round, bottles racked into the walls on both sides, and tasting halls at the far end. A tour usually runs about an hour and a half and includes tasting. Beyond the large producers, the surrounding villages hold dozens of family cellars where the owner pours qvevri wine straight from his own vessels.

Kvareli also has two lakes. Kvareli Lake lies five kilometres above the town on the slope, with a hotel, a beach and a view across the whole valley; the smaller Ilia Lake is close to the centre. Both fill up in summer, though on a hot Kakhetian afternoon spending time beside water is probably the most sensible plan available.