Khertvisi Fortress
One of the oldest fortresses in Georgia, standing where two rivers meet on the road to Vardzia.
- Time needed
- 1 h
- From Tbilisi
- 250 km · 4:05
- Road
- Paved
- Car needed
- Economy class
- Season
- All year
- Entry
- free
Khertvisi sits on a narrow rock spur at the confluence of the Mtkvari and the Paravani, exactly where two gorges meet. The name says as much: a place at the junction of rivers. There is no better defensive position in this part of Meskheti, which is why a stronghold has stood here since antiquity.
Folk tradition credits Alexander the Great with destroying the fortress. That is legend rather than history, but it shows how ancient the site was already considered in the Middle Ages. The walls and towers you see today are mostly 14th to 16th century, while the small church on the site is considerably older.
What there is to see:
- high curtain walls and towers that follow the shape of the rock
- the citadel on the upper level
- views over the river confluence and the gorge running on towards Vardzia
The fortress is essentially always open and free to enter. You can climb through it freely, but stairs, ledges and sections of wall are unprotected — there are no railings anywhere, and children need to be held.
Because the Vardzia road passes directly beneath the walls, this stop costs almost nothing in driving time.
Gallery
Practical advice
Khertvisi is the natural pause on the drive to Vardzia, and thirty to forty minutes is enough. Leave the car by the bridge at the foot of the rock. The climb goes up a steep stone path that is slippery even in dry weather, so proper shoes matter and sandals are a bad idea. There are no railings, so keep hold of children on the upper walls. No toilets, cafe or ATM here — the nearest are in Aspindza, about fifteen kilometres away.
How to get there from Tbilisi
The route is the same as for Vardzia: E60 from Tbilisi to Khashuri, south through Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe, then towards Aspindza along the Mtkvari gorge. Khertvisi stands right at the roadside about fifteen kilometres before Vardzia and is visible long before you reach it. Around 250 km and four hours in total. The asphalt is good the whole way, with the last stretch narrow and winding. Fill up in Akhaltsikhe. An economy car is entirely sufficient; nothing here requires clearance.
Click a marker for details. Coloured lines are ready-made road trips.
Nearby places
CaveVardzia
A 12th-century cave city and monastery cut into the Mtkvari gorge, the flagship monument of Queen Tamar's era.
MonasterySapara Monastery
An active monastery hidden on a cliff terrace near Akhaltsikhe, with 13th-century frescoes.
FortressRabati Castle (Akhaltsikhe)
A restored fortress-town in the heart of Akhaltsikhe where a mosque, a church and a synagogue share one courtyard.
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