Jumati Monastery

Jumati was one of the principal religious centres of Guria, and it carries an unusual history. The monastery stands on a hill north-west of Ozurgeti with a wide view over the valley. It is dedicated to the Archangels Michael and Gabriel. The church is largely 16th century, though the site is far older and parts of the fabric are dated to the 12th or 13th. One of the burial vaults of the Gurieli, the princes of Guria, was here. Jumati entered the wider history of art for a different reason. It held Byzantine icons in cloisonné enamel — 10th to 12th century work, among the finest enamels anywhere in Europe. In 1859 part of the collection was sold and left the country; today the Jumati enamels are in museums in Boston and New York, with some pieces in the Georgian National Museum in Tbilisi. They are not at the monastery, and it is better to know that before you drive up. What is on site: - The church, a plain, well-kept stone building with a bell tower - Fragments of fresco inside, heavily damaged - The view from the hill — the ridges of Guria, the old tea plantations, and the Kolkheti lowland in the distance An hour. This is not a large monument and part of its interest is historical rather than visual, but the view from the hill and the quiet are both real, and the drive up through the hazelnut orchards is pleasant in itself.

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