Ateni Sioni Church
A 7th-century church in the Ateni gorge with outstanding 11th-century frescoes and historic vineyards.
- Time needed
- 1 h
- From Tbilisi
- 98 km · 1:30
- Road
- Mostly paved
- Car needed
- Economy class
- Season
- All year
- Entry
- free
Ateni Sioni is the younger sibling of Jvari. Built in the 7th century on the same tetraconch plan as the church above Mtskheta, it is generally accepted that its masons were working directly from the Jvari model. It stands south of Gori in the Tana gorge, in a quiet spot enclosed by steep slopes and vineyards.
The real treasure is inside. The surviving 11th-century frescoes are among the finest examples of medieval Georgian painting, particularly the Dormition of the Virgin and the cycle of the life of Christ. The walls also carry very early asomtavruli inscriptions, including 8th and 9th century graffiti that historians treat as a source in their own right.
The gorge itself is a reason to come:
- The Ateni vineyards, historic home of atenuri wine, with several small cellars working again
- The rock walls of the Tana valley and the river, which keeps the gorge cool in summer
- The ruins of Ateni fortress on a crag a few kilometres beyond the church
Coach tours do not come here. After the crowds at Uplistsikhe, the emptiness of Ateni is a striking and welcome contrast, and the drive up the gorge is pleasant in its own right.
Practical advice
The church is not always open; the door is often locked with the key kept in a nearby house, and a patient, polite enquiry usually solves it. The frescoes are lit only by daylight, so come in the middle of the day, and flash photography is not allowed. Normal dress rules apply. Facilities in the gorge are minimal, so use cafés and toilets in Gori. Allow an hour for the church and another for a walk along the river.
How to get there from Tbilisi
Take the E60 from Tbilisi to Gori (86 km, an hour and ten minutes), then turn south out of the town onto the Ateni gorge road and continue about 12 km along the Tana river. The road is mostly asphalt but narrow, with potholed sections and several single-lane bridges — take care after rain. In total roughly 98 km and an hour and a half. An economy car manages it, though a crossover makes the last few kilometres more comfortable. Fill up in Gori, as there is no fuel station in the gorge.
Click a marker for details. Coloured lines are ready-made road trips.
Nearby places
TownGori: Fortress and Stalin Museum
The capital of Shida Kartli — a medieval citadel on its hill and the most contested museum of the Soviet era.
CaveUplistsikhe
A city carved into the rock above the Mtkvari — Georgia's oldest urban centre, with over 3,000 years of history.
MonasteryKintsvisi Monastery
A 13th-century monastery in the woods, home to the Angel of Kintsvisi — the best-known fresco in Georgian art.
Booking and enquiries
This site is informational — there is no online payment. Call or email us to book.